The Surfboard: Art, Style, Stoke » (First)

Dividing her time between her native Brazil and the United States, Juliana Morais is a photographer, filmmaker, and writer who contributes to ESPN Brazil and several surf and sports magazines worldwide. She is also a surfer.

Jeff Divine is one of the world's most famed surfing photographers, bar none. He is the photo editor at The Surfer's Journal.

Even in the beginning, the surfboard was a religious icon. The ancient Hawaiians rode their koa boards in homage to the sea’s gods. And today, surfing is a philosophy and a way of life rolled into one.

Here at last is the first ever history of the surfboard! From the ancient Hawaiians’ monstrous koa planks to the latest and greatest plastic fantastic masterpieces, the surfboard’s tale is told in glorious photography and stoked text.

            Author Ben Marcus writes for Surfer, The Surfer’s Journal, and other magazines. Photographer Jeff Divine is one of the world’s foremost surfing shooters and photo editor at The Surfer’s Journal. And Juliana Morais photographed Fernando Aguerre’s amazing collection of rare, historic, unusual, and famous surfboards to create The Surfboard: Art, Style, Stoke.

Foreword   Gary Linden     12
Icons
Surfboards in Hawaiian Culture 1600 B.C. to 1920 A.D     14
The Thoroughly Modern Olo
Kookboxes, Redwood Swastikas, and Balsa Flyers The Roaring Twenties and the Soaring Thirties     32
Sliding Ass
The Skeg and the Hot Curl 1934 through World War II     64
Plastic Fantastic
Wondrous Shapes and Wonder Materials Post-World War II Experiments     72
Foam
Sandwich Boards, Spoons, and the Foam Future From the Fall of Hitler to the Rise of Gidget     92
Toes on the Nose, Feet on the Tail
Supplying the Surfing Sensation 1960-1967     114
You Say You Want a Revolution
From Sam to the Thruster 1966-1981     148
Brave New World
The More Things Change, the More They Stay the Same 1981 and Still Going Strong     204
Acknowledgments and Sources     252
Index     254
About the Author and Contributors     256