The Fabric of Cultures: Fashion, Identity, Globalization »

Eugenia Paulicelli is Professor of Italian, Comparative Literature and Women’s Studies at Queens College and the Graduate Center of the City University of New York. She is also Co-Director of the Graduate Center Fashion Studies Concentration. Her recent publications include Fashion under Fascism: Beyond the Black Shirt (2004) and her articles on fashion have appeared in the journals, Fashion Theory and Gender & History.

Hazel Clark is Dean, School of Art and Design History and Theory, Parsons The New School for Design, New York. She is a design historian and theorist, with a specialist interest in fashion, design and cultural identity. She is the author of The Cheongsam (2000) and co-editor, with A. Palmer of Old Clothes, New Looks: Second Hand Fashion (2005).

Fashion is both public and private, material and symbolic, always caught within the lived experience and providing an incredible tool to study culture and history.

The Fabric of Cultures examines the impact of fashion as a manufacturing industry and as a culture industry that shapes the identities of nations and cities in a cross-cultural perspective, within a global framework. The collected essays investigate local and global economies, cultures and identities and the book offers for the first time, a wide spectrum of case studies which focus on a diversity of geographical spaces and places, from global capitals of fashion such as New York, to countries less known or identifiable for fashion such as contemporary Greece and soviet Russia.

Highly illustrated and including essays from all over the world, The Fabric of Cultures provides a comprehensive survey of the latest interdisciplinary scholarship on fashion, identity and globalisation.

List of figures ix

Notes on contributors xi

Acknowledgements xv

Introduction Eugenia Paulicelli Hazel Clark 1

1 From potlatch to Wal-Mart: courtly and capitalist hierarchies through dress Jane Schneider 13

2 Dressing the nation: Indian cinema costume and the making of a national fashion, 1947-1957 Rachel Tu 28

3 Made in America: Paris, New York, and postwar fashion photography Helena C. Ribeiro 41

4 Framing the Self, staging identity: clothing and Italian style in the films of Michelangelo Antonioni (1950-1964) Eugenia Paulicelli 53

5 The art of dressing: body, gender, and discourse on fashion in Soviet Russia in the 1950s and 1960s Olga Gurova 73

6 Fashioning appropriate youth in 1990s Vietnam Ann Marie Leshkowich 92

7 Youth, gender, and secondhand clothing in Lusaka, Zambia: local and global styles Karen Tranberg Hansen 112

8 Fashion design and technologies in a global context Michiel Scheffer 128

9 Fabricating Greekness: from fustanella to the glossy page Michael Skafidas 145

10 Fashion Brazil: South American style, culture, and industry Valeria Brandini 164

11 Fashioning "China style" in the twenty-first century Hazel Clark 177

12 From factories to fashion: an intern's experience of New York as a global fashion capital Christina H. Moon 194

Index 211