Authors: Robert R. Calkin, J. Stephan Jellinek
ISBN-13: 9780471589341, ISBN-10: 0471589349
Format: Hardcover
Publisher: Wiley, John & Sons, Incorporated
Date Published: August 1994
Edition: New Edition
A text/reference regarding the structure and function of components used in perfume development and the process of developing perfumes. Covers gas chromatography, mass spectrometry and a host of other analytical techniques; the esthetics and techniques of perfume development; the manifold and ever-changing safety-related requirements of countries and customers; concerns about the environmental impact of materials and impurities which affect the perfumer's work.
A practical handbook to the science of modern perfumery, presenting a comprehensive guide to the basic techniques and evolving technology of manufacturing perfumes as well as providing guidelines for actual formulation and analysis. Real-life case studies and practical applications of instrumentation offer insight into the use of fragrance in such products as detergents and soaps, as well as cosmetics and designer perfumes. Illustrative charts and tables highlight key techniques. Annotation c. Book News, Inc., Portland, OR (booknews.com)
Preface | ||
Pt. I | Basic Skills and Techniques | |
1 | What It Takes to Be a Perfumer | 3 |
2 | The Student Perfumer Today | 10 |
3 | The Technique of Smelling | 15 |
4 | Perfumery Raw Materials | 19 |
5 | The Learning and Classification of Raw Materials | 24 |
6 | The Floral Accords | 44 |
7 | The Technique of Matching | 58 |
Pt. II | Aesthetics and the Fundamentals of Composition | |
8 | The Biological Basis of Aesthetics | 75 |
9 | The Structure of a Perfume | 83 |
10 | The Use of Bases | 94 |
Pt. III | Studies in Fine Fragrance | |
11 | The Descent of Perfumes | 101 |
12 | Selected Great Perfumes | 107 |
Pt. IV | Aspects of Creative Perfumery | |
13 | Perfumes for Functional Products | 143 |
14 | The Challenge of New Materials | 177 |
15 | Constraints to Creation | 180 |
16 | The Perfumer and the Market | 196 |
Pt. V | Scientific Fundamentals | |
17 | The Chemical Structure of Perfumery Materials | 207 |
18 | Chemical Reactions in Perfumery | 222 |
19 | The Physical Basis of Perfumery | 234 |
20 | Psychophysics and Perfumery | 243 |
App. A Structural Groups | 253 | |
App. B The Functional Groups | 258 | |
App. C The Aldehydes | 261 | |
App. D The Ionones | 267 | |
App. E Glossary of Perfumes, Specialty Raw Materials, and Bases | 269 | |
Bibliography | 273 | |
Index of Perfumery Raw Materials and Bases | 277 | |
General Index | 283 |