I Surf, Therefore I Am: A Philosophy of Surfing » (1)

"This is the first book about surfing ever written by a philosopher. The author, a 70-year-old surfanatic, has been Professor of Philosophy at Boston College for over 40 years and has written 50 other books on philosophy, religion, and culture. But compared to this one, the others are nothing but straw." It gives ten compelling existential. reasons why everyone should surf: reasons from the great philosophers: Moses, Buddha, Confucius, Lao Tzu, Socrates, Plato, Aristotle, Jesus, Machiavelli, Freud, and George Morey. It explains how surfing is the easiest and most delightful way in the world to attain what you most deeply long for, for it can make you good, mystical, peaceful, wise, heavenly, happy, sexy, and even rich.

Non-Introduction 1

Ten Reasons Why Everyone Should Surf 2

1 Because It Makes You Happy (Aristotle) 3

2 Because It Makes You Mystical (Buddha) 15

3 Because It Makes You Peaceful (Confucius and Lao Tzu) 36

4 Because It Makes You Good (Moses) 44

5 Because It Makes You Christ-like (Jesus) 49

6 Because It Makes You Heavenly (Plato) 51

7 Because It Makes You Sexy (Freud) 56

8 Because It Can Make You Rich (Machiavelli) 68

9 Because It Makes You Wise (Socrates) 72

10 Because Anyone Can Do It (George Morey) 84

The Bodyboard and the Printing Press 85

A Defense of the Bodyboard (A Manifesto) 87

Bodyboarding for Beginners: Seven Lessons 91

1 How to Wait 91

2 How to Wipe Out 99

3 How to Find a Good Wave 105

4 Two Easy Ways to Catch Waves 109

5 Seven Kinds of Rides 114

6 How to Ride Down the Wave Face 116

7 How to Get in the Green Room 119

Non-Conclusion 121

Index 123