Authors: Anatoli Boukreev, G. Weston Dewalt, G. Weston Dewalt
ISBN-13: 9780312965334, ISBN-10: 0312965338
Format: Mass Market Paperback
Publisher: St. Martin's Press
Date Published: April 1998
Edition: (Non-applicable)
Anatoli Boukreev was one of the world's foremost high-altitude mountaineers, arguably the finest of his generation. He had summited eleven of the world's 8,000 meter peaks without the use of supplementary oxygen, some of them, including Mount Everest, multiple times. In all, he attempted twenty-one times he was successful. Born in Russia where he received the Master of Sports with Honors, Boukreev had made his home in Kazakhstan where in 1998 the President of that Republic awarded him posthumously the "Erligi Ushin" Medal for his contributions to high-altitude mountaineering and for his personal courage.
G. Weston Dewalt is a writer and investigative filmmaker who specializes in human rights issues, the confluence of humankind and the environment, and biography. His film Genbaku shi: Killed by the Atomic Bomb compelled the U.S. Department of Defense to acknowledge that American POWs had been killed during the atomic bombing of Hiroshima. He divides his time between Santa Fe, New Mexico, and London.
As the climbers of the 1996 Mt. Everest disaster vanished into thin air, one man had the courage to bring them down alive...
On May 10, 1996, two commercial expeditions headed by expert leaders attempted to scale the world's largest peak. But things went terribly wrong. Crowded conditions, bad judgement, and a bitter storm stopped many climbers in their tracks. Others were left for dead, or stranded on the frigid mountain. Anatoli Boukreev, head climbing guide for the Mountain Madness expedition, stepped into the heart of the storm and brought three of his clients down alive. Here is his amazing story-of an expedition fated for disaster, of the blind ambition that drives people to attempt such dangerous ventures, and of a modern-day hero, who risked his own life to save others..
Weaving together first-hand accounts by the head tour guide of the Mountain Madness expedition and an investigative narrative based on interviews with other expedition members and mountain climbing specialists, the authors explore the conditions that led to the May, 1996 disaster on Everest. The authors counter many of the claims that were made in Jon Krakauer's , written on the same subject.
Prologue | ||
Ch. 1 | Mountain Madness | 1 |
Ch. 2 | The Everest Invitation | 13 |
Ch. 3 | Doing the Deals | 25 |
Ch. 4 | The Clients | 36 |
Ch. 5 | The Trail to Everest | 42 |
Ch. 6 | Doing the Details | 50 |
Ch. 7 | Base Camp | 58 |
Ch. 8 | Khumbu to Camp II | 64 |
Ch. 9 | Camp II | 77 |
Ch. 10 | The First Delays | 86 |
Ch. 11 | Toward the Push | 98 |
Ch. 12 | The Countdown | 109 |
Ch. 13 | Into the Death Zone | 121 |
Ch. 14 | To the South Summit | 133 |
Ch. 15 | The Last Hundred | 143 |
Ch. 16 | Decision and Descent | 151 |
Ch. 17 | Snowblind | 160 |
Ch. 18 | Walk or Crawl | 170 |
Ch. 19 | The Rescue Transcript | 182 |
Ch. 20 | The Last Attempt | 199 |
Ch. 21 | Mountain Media Madness | 206 |
Afterword | 225 | |
Epilogue: The Return to Everest | 230 | |
Postscript | 251 | |
In Memory | 255 | |
Everest Update: A Response to Jon Krakauer | 261 | |
A Review from the American Alpine Journal | 299 | |
Mountain Madness Everest Debriefing: A Transcript | 304 |