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Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest »

Book cover image of Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest by Anatoli Boukreev

Authors: Anatoli Boukreev, G. Weston Dewalt, G. Weston Dewalt
ISBN-13: 9780312965334, ISBN-10: 0312965338
Format: Mass Market Paperback
Publisher: St. Martin's Press
Date Published: April 1998
Edition: (Non-applicable)

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Author Biography: Anatoli Boukreev

Anatoli Boukreev was one of the world's foremost high-altitude mountaineers, arguably the finest of his generation. He had summited eleven of the world's 8,000 meter peaks without the use of supplementary oxygen, some of them, including Mount Everest, multiple times. In all, he attempted twenty-one times he was successful. Born in Russia where he received the Master of Sports with Honors, Boukreev had made his home in Kazakhstan where in 1998 the President of that Republic awarded him posthumously the "Erligi Ushin" Medal for his contributions to high-altitude mountaineering and for his personal courage.

G. Weston Dewalt is a writer and investigative filmmaker who specializes in human rights issues, the confluence of humankind and the environment, and biography. His film Genbaku shi: Killed by the Atomic Bomb compelled the U.S. Department of Defense to acknowledge that American POWs had been killed during the atomic bombing of Hiroshima. He divides his time between Santa Fe, New Mexico, and London.

Book Synopsis

As the climbers of the 1996 Mt. Everest disaster vanished into thin air, one man had the courage to bring them down alive...

On May 10, 1996, two commercial expeditions headed by expert leaders attempted to scale the world's largest peak. But things went terribly wrong. Crowded conditions, bad judgement, and a bitter storm stopped many climbers in their tracks. Others were left for dead, or stranded on the frigid mountain. Anatoli Boukreev, head climbing guide for the Mountain Madness expedition, stepped into the heart of the storm and brought three of his clients down alive. Here is his amazing story-of an expedition fated for disaster, of the blind ambition that drives people to attempt such dangerous ventures, and of a modern-day hero, who risked his own life to save others..

Booknews

Weaving together first-hand accounts by the head tour guide of the Mountain Madness expedition and an investigative narrative based on interviews with other expedition members and mountain climbing specialists, the authors explore the conditions that led to the May, 1996 disaster on Everest. The authors counter many of the claims that were made in Jon Krakauer's , written on the same subject.

Table of Contents

Prologue
Ch. 1Mountain Madness1
Ch. 2The Everest Invitation13
Ch. 3Doing the Deals25
Ch. 4The Clients36
Ch. 5The Trail to Everest42
Ch. 6Doing the Details50
Ch. 7Base Camp58
Ch. 8Khumbu to Camp II64
Ch. 9Camp II77
Ch. 10The First Delays86
Ch. 11Toward the Push98
Ch. 12The Countdown109
Ch. 13Into the Death Zone121
Ch. 14To the South Summit133
Ch. 15The Last Hundred143
Ch. 16Decision and Descent151
Ch. 17Snowblind160
Ch. 18Walk or Crawl170
Ch. 19The Rescue Transcript182
Ch. 20The Last Attempt199
Ch. 21Mountain Media Madness206
Afterword225
Epilogue: The Return to Everest230
Postscript251
In Memory255
Everest Update: A Response to Jon Krakauer261
A Review from the American Alpine Journal299
Mountain Madness Everest Debriefing: A Transcript304

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