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The Hamburger: A History (Icons of America) Paperback – Illustrated, May 26, 2009
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What do Americans think of when they think of the hamburger? A robust, succulent spheroid of fresh ground beef, the birthright of red-blooded citizens? Or a Styrofoam-shrouded Big Mac, mass-produced to industrial specifications and served by wage slaves to an obese, brainwashed population? Is it cooking or commodity? An icon of freedom or the quintessence of conformity?
This fast-paced and entertaining book unfolds the immense significance of the hamburger as an American icon. Josh Ozersky shows how the history of the burger is entwined with American business and culture and, unexpectedly, how the burger’s story is in many ways the story of the country that invented (and reinvented) it.
Spanning the years from the nineteenth century with its waves of European immigrants to our own era of globalization, the book recounts how German “hamburg steak” evolved into hamburgers for the rising class of urban factory workers and how the innovations of the White Castle System and the McDonald’s Corporation turned the burger into the Model T of fast food. The hamburger played an important role in America’s transformation into a mobile, suburban culture, and today, America’s favorite sandwich is nothing short of an irrepressible economic and cultural force. How this all happened, and why, is a remarkable story, told here with insight, humor, and gusto.
- Print length147 pages
- LanguageEnglish
- PublisherYale University Press
- Publication dateMay 26, 2009
- Dimensions8.1 x 5.4 x 0.5 inches
- ISBN-10030015125X
- ISBN-13978-0300151251
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About the Author
An American cultural historian and recognized authority on food, Josh Ozersky is food editor/online for New York Magazine. He has written for The
New York Times, the New York Post, Saveur, and many other publications. His books include Meat Me in Manhattan: A Carnivore’s Guide to New York and Archie Bunker’s America: TV in an Era of Changing Times. He lives in New York City.
Product details
- Publisher : Yale University Press; Illustrated edition (May 26, 2009)
- Language : English
- Paperback : 147 pages
- ISBN-10 : 030015125X
- ISBN-13 : 978-0300151251
- Item Weight : 7.2 ounces
- Dimensions : 8.1 x 5.4 x 0.5 inches
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The author starts the book by debunking most of the current myths about how and who invented the hamburger. And, the author uses pretty strict criteria for what a hamburger is and is not. He puts to rest the claims of many of the people who claim to be the originator and comes up with a plausible explanation of how the burger was actually invented.
From that point, the author looks at the social implications, as well as the corporate structure that made the hamburger what it is today. How did McD's get started and how did a lowly piece of meat create one of today's largest corporations? You'll just have to read the book to find out. What happened to the company that started it all? And, no, that would not be McD.
The book, while relatively short, is well written and very readable. I enjoyed learning about the sides of the hamburger that I never knew existed.
In the 12 airtight tombs I excavated in the Babylonian cities of Ur, Ahhh, and UhOh, we find the still-wet blankets used to gag - some think, throttle - the enclosed young men and women, likely buried before their time. Clay tablets found nearby tell the story: in a society that prized sullen conversation, these people not only couldn't shut up, they could not stick to the subject. They had to quote Homer or throw in a reference to The Book of the Dead; talk about a party with the Hyksos or minor dignitaries from Troy. They couldn't inscribe one pictograph without making it into three tablets. Babylonians could not abide that barley-liquor party chatter from Abraham and forced him to emigrate, figuring the Judeans were already famous for their intellectualism. Josh Ozersky would have ended up in a tomb as one of the Babeling 12.
Ozersky is so bright and knows so many words and has read so many books and has so many things to say. He lacks only an internal editor, and so ends up being precious. Here's an example: "A hamburger is no mere sandwich, thrown together at home for convenient eating at the gaming table of the TV room, a random pile of starch and meat. No, it is a product of modern industrial manufacturing, each burger as artfully self-contained as a Homeric hexameter. The bun and the burger were created for each other and spoke of their symbiosis in the language of circumferential geometry" (29). OK. He really wants to talk about 'the hamburger' as a metaphor special to America: created for a poor but honest subsistence diet among hardworking immigrants, it quickly became a product of purely American mechanical ingenuity and management science, then the stuff of American fortunes, and then as an export, a symbol of the American exceptionalism that ironically wants to remake the world in the image of infinitely reproducible Big Mac's. And in this form, it becomes the stuff of art and myth once again.
The irony is not lost on him; he wants us to know that NOTHING is. I appreciate that. Couldn't you have said this in, say, 50 pages? Without the asides? It's not a cocktail party, Josh.
The bottom line is, a very interesting book, more about the idea of the burger than The Hamburger itself, written by a smart kid who never got laid in high school, and is trying to make up for it now.
By the way, I made up the stuff in the first two paragraphs. Not that I think Josh makes up things - no way! We just both enjoy creating tenuous contexts.